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Surf Prescriptions:
Most people think a surfboard fin is nothing more than a surfboard fin but like a car, there are so many types and styles to fit the taste and style of the surfer. Back in the early days of surfing, the above terms were not even a part of a surfer's vocabulary. In fact, the first surfboards did not even have fins. Fins came along as a part of the "developing" surfboard after many years of surfers having to drag their back foot to get their board to turn. Surfboards back then were generally about 15-foot long, 150-pound redwood planks and the idea of a bottom turn or an "off the lip" were unheard of in this sport formerly known as "wave sliding". As the surfboard evolved it transitioned to a much shorter and lighter board with many sizes of fin attached to make the board maneuverable out on the face of the wave. All fins were then a permanent part of the board…fiber glassed to the bottom of the board so both feet could be used to distribute the weight of the surfer. "Removable" fins were not really a standard item until the late 1970's but fins were still in an evolution along with the surfboard itself. By this time, surfboards ranged in weight and length providing a variety of board styles for a variety of wave conditions. Once the short board revolution hit in the 1970's, the objective of the short boarder was to go faster, turn more quickly…and now in the modern era, to fly higher. Surfboards today range in weight, size, and dimension based on the personal likes and nuances of the individual but most surfboards are very lightweight. Removable fins are now a standard piece of equipment and the number of styles of removable fins is even more numerous than the number of surfboards I have in my personal stash. So, what does that all mean??? Different fins with different depth, base length, rake, template, foil, tip, flex, and weight provide as many decisions to the surfer as there are options you can have installed on a new car. Still confused? OK…the quick basics. The fin on a surfboard can help provide forward momentum much like the paddle on a gondola in the waters of Venice, Italy. The way a fin flexes and the way the water flows past the tip of a fin can provide lift, which makes the board more maneuverable. Some fins provide more flex than others while some fins that stand taller and have more tip will hold the board into a steep wave better than a shorter more flexible fin. The weight of the surfer and the surfboard design has a big impact on how a particular fin will work in particular conditions.
With all of the fin choices and surfboard designs out there…how do you
know what is right for you? Well, the surfboard shaper has already done
most of the homework for you. When you buy a new surfboard, generally
the surf shop personnel will give you the fin recommended by the shaper.
Unless you are out there surfing on a regular basis and really into changing
how your board rides, these choices are not something that you will become
concerned with…so don't sweat it. Just get out there and surf…. leave
these choices to the professionals. I like to mention this stuff so the
"general public" can realize that there's a whole lot more to
surfing than just hanging out at the beach and being the stereotypical
"Jeff Spicoli" surfer dude. So, take three fins and don't call
me in the morning…The Surf Doctor will out be surfing. |
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